Hello there! I seem to be one city behind on this series of entries, writing about Tzfat now as I prepare to leave Tiberias. It was really a unique weekend. Met some great people, learned some fascinating things, and had a wonderful time.
I arrived Thursday afternoon, with enough time to get settled and rest up before dinner and the first event at Ascent for the Secret of Joy Shabbat Seminar. As I was hiking up the stairs, an American guy around my age with a full beard and Chadissic look stopped me to introduce himself, Moyshe. He seemed very nice, but at first I was pretty scared. Was this the type of person that signed up for the weekend? If so, I'm a bit behind on my Jewish studies and a bit out of place. Turns out he is living and working in Tzfat for the past few months, and a volunteer for Seminar weekends at Ascent. Phew. I settled into room 28, chatted with him on the beautiful balcony for a few, and waited for other guests to arrive. Before dinner, I met a group of 4 American boys at Yeshiva in Jerusalem, Ashley from LA (who would become my roommate when they realized they had assigned me the wrong room) and 2 girls from Australia Esther and Carmella. And Reuben. How can I forget him? And older man from Mexico City spending the weekend before Sarel, an army volunteer program (with Ricci by the way). They served various salads and stuffed peppers for dinner. Nice to have meals included for a change, even if they are just on paper plates. After dinner was the first lecture, "Think Good and It Will Be Good" with Rabbi Tilles. He shared stories with us relating to the theme, explained some basic Kaballah principles, and intorduced us to the weekend. It was intereting, but I was tired. Next on the agenda was a Forbrengen, like a group discussion/chat over snacks, with Big Mo at 10:30. We felt kind of bad, but the girls left early because we didn't know any of the songs and were falling asleep in the plates of Bamba. Time for a good nights sleep before a big day.
Breakfast Friday was at 8:30. Somehow I made it down in time! This was followed by another lecture entitled "Troubled Waters". Similar to basically every class this weekend, they talked about the week's portion instead of the theme, but that was ok. It was Ki Tissa, my Bat Mitzvah portion from 10 years ago, so I really felt connected and learned a lot. It's a juicy parsha, 10 Commandments broken, Golden Calf, lots to talk about. After the lecture was. as the schedule noted, a "spiritual hike in the Galilee", which took us from just outside to Tzfat to Rosh Pinna, the same town where Mom and Dad stayed during their visit. The woman, Chaya, was a little cold at first, telling us we had to pay for the ride back if we wanted to hike, but she loosened up and it turned out to be very nice. The trail was basically downhill, and despite the moment where I went down and tore my knee open, had a good time. She told us about all kinds of plants we were seeing and we took a nice break to eat the sandwiches they packed us next to a cute little stream. When we got to Rosh Pinna we had the option of staying to walk around the town a bit or heading back to get ready for Shabbat. I decided to head back so I could get a shower in, and since only 2 of us were coming at the time we got a ride with Chaya and her kids.
After my shower, the men left for Ari's Mikveh and the girls to the old cemetary to see the famous grave sites. I was the only girl who went, so they basically just dropped me off there. It would have been fine, except I didn't really know what I was looking for so I wandered through the graveyard watching people pray. Then I hiked back up tons of stairs and walked up a hill back to Ascent. So much for my shower... Rinsed off, got dressed in my Shabbat finest (skirt, elbows covered, the whole shebang), and went down to the talk on Shabbat, Tzfat, and Kaballah with Rabbi Leiter, the one who started Ascent 20 something years ago. After that candle lighting, where Devora helped make sure Ashley and I understood all the steps and traditions. Devora would turn out to be a true guiding light throughout the weekend. Great energy, open and friendly, really made me feel welcome in a place I wasn't sure I belonged. We lit with several other women and children who had come for the weekend with their families, then had Kaballat Shabbat on the roof and got our placements for the evening meal. Ashley and I were assigned together to the Tornek's house, an older couple, made Aliyah 20 or so years ago. Chana used to work as a secretary at Ascent, but unfortunately had a stroke a few years back and was currently in a wheel chair. She had trouble speaking, but was a bright spirit and a pleaure to get to know. As she told us about her children back in the US she began crying several times. When we sat down to dinner, her husband dutifully served, cleared, washed, did all the household duties, as we joked with her he was copying her on. We had a course of salads, then motzo ball soup, then kishke and chicken and rice, and we ate until we were stuffed. We talked about them finding Kaballah and Chabad, their former life on a farm in Colorado, our spiritual problems, advice, and tons more. We didn't leave the table until midnight, missing the evenings Forbrengen completely. That's ok, we had one of our own. Very inspiring couple, and just tugs the heartstrings to see him take care of her as he did. Truly an incredible Shabbat experience already. We got back to Ascent and the girls stayed up chatting until probably 2. Oops.
Set an alarm to make it to breakfast and services on Saturday, as did Ashley, but both of us opted to snooze and sleep through instead. It was a good choice, I really needed it. Made it to kiddush at noon, a talk with Moyshe about bringing the Messiah with Joy and again Ki Tissa, then lunch. After lunch the library was open and it was time for study and relaxing, and several people recommended my some Kaballah books on Education. Really interesting reads actually, and let to some great discussions with Devora. I told her what it is that I do, and it turns out they have been thinking about starting and artsand theatre program at Ascent. They all really wanted to hear my ideas and I told them I would love to be a bouncing off point as they bein the planning. Could be a cool thing to be a part of. She explained that the word for faith (amuna) and for art (amanut) come from the same root. I really like that.
At 5 we left for a tour of Tzfat, which I must say looks very different with all the shops closed and no tourists wondering around. In my Shabbt outfit I blended right in. The tour was followed by musical Havdalah on the roof with a huge group of soldiers also staying there for the weekend, and several families with children. We sang and danced and I played with the babies as we greeted the week. Again, really fun and exciting change of pace for me.
Had some more time to relax before dinner, and a Rabbi came to do personal appointments in the library to read our personal Torah codes. Basically they find your Hebrew name in the portion from the week you were born, and read your fortune from the words the letters are in. My portion is when the Jews cross through the parted sea and turn to see the Egyptians following them and cry out. He told me what the different analyses were for te part of the story, and things they said abou tme like I am good at arranging things and doing puzzles, etc. It was pretty cool. He gave a little printout of the portion and where my name was found. After that at around 10 we had a meal all together, eating and sharing stories, and then headed to bed. Looking back already it was an awesome weekend adventure.
On Sunday morning I woke up for the last talk, about the Tanya, the atomic bomb of Judaism, and then headed out on my own to explore Tzfat a bit before heading out. I went to the artist market, bought cheese from a little factory, and just wandered through the old synagogues. Had a picnic outside, reading my book and eating my cheese and pita, then came back to say goodbye before going on my way. Devora thanked me in advance for her help, saying I was sent there to help them, and gave me a candlestick to keep the ideas of Ascent with me. These people do wonderful things and the whole thing was really an inspiration.
I have to go, I have been hogging the computer for a while, but I'll be back soon to write about Tiberias! Can't believe I'm saying this, but see you Saturday!
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Haifa - Baha'i, Beaches, and Balkan Beat Box
Hi! Writing you from Ascent institute in Tzfat. Wanted to check in about my solo adventures up North. I am loving it so far. Seen Haifa and Tzfat. Two cities that could not be more different and an excellent start to my final adventures.
I left Hod HaSharon for Haifa Tuesday morning. Started off on a good note when the driver gave me a student discount. I got off at Hof HaCarmel and took a local bus to the Port Inn. Right off the bat it ranked up there as one of the better hostels I've stayed in. The lady at the desk let me check in super fast and held my backpack for me so I could run to make the English speaking tour of the Baha'i Gardens at noon. I took the Carmelit, the only subway in Israel, walked down the gorgeous Luis Promonade to the top of the gardens, and made it just in time. The gardens themselves were beautiful, and I had seen them a few times before, but this time having someone explain more about what they actually meant really helped. Unfortunately though, the Shrine of the Bab, the central point on the hill of garden tiers, was covered for construction and not a gleaming dome as it usually is. Oh well. I watched a movie about the Baha'i faith and it was quite fascinating. They pray towards Akko as Jews do toward Jerusalem. The faith is based on the idea of community and diversity and a blend of science and religion and peace and all those good things. There were a ton of Baha'is on pilgrimage staying in my hostel as well and hearing their stories was really quite cool. More on that later.
After the gardens I made my way to a sculpture garden I had read about it my book. The plan was to get fod and sit and eat in the garden, but I didn't find any food on the way. In fact I walked uphill and only got hungirer, so I cut the garden walk short and went to get food. Walked back down the long hill and wandered a bit looking for a bite. I somehow ended up back at the hostel, so I got 10 shekel falafel (including drink) and went back to finish checking in and get settled in the room. I was in a dorm with with about 10 beds. Hadn't met any roommates yet so I headed back out with the plan of catching an art museum. The sign outside of the Chagall House, the free art gallery I wanted to make my first stop, said that it opened again at 4. I was a bit early so I wandered around the area a bit. I found a childrens art center and walked around a bit, looking at the cute projects and art on the walls. When it was almost 4 I went back to the other house, and waited. When it was 5 after 4 and the door hadn't opened, I knocked. Nothing. I looked again at the sign and read, in Hebrew, what I am pretty sure said open 8-1 and 4-7 everyday. Except Tuesday. Oops. Even Frommers lies sometimes. So after wasting a bit of time, I went back on my way.
I walked down Hertzl street, shopping strip, towards Nordauy street, a pedestrian walkway I thought would resemble Ben Yehuda in Jerusalem. As the theme of the day, it wasn't quite what I expected, pretty barren, so I finished up Hertzl street and stumbled upon the Haifa Theatre. I would. Nothing was playing that night, but I got a peek. Since it was Haifa, I had to pop by the port on my way back to the hostel for the night. I got in trouble for taking pictures. (Apparently its treated like a border crossing). Oops again. When I got back top my hostel, I came down to the communal rooms, kitchen and tv room, to explore and see what was going on. There was a family from France, Baha'i Pilgrims, with the cutest little mulatto kids. The boy and I had a brief "laser fight" with our hands, but I couldn't really talk to him since I don't exactly speak French. I went to Abu Yosef, an Arab place, for dinner, and had kubbe and a variety of salads. When I got back I met an older women in my hostel room. She was a bit strange. She had just made Aliyah to be with her daughter who had been living in Israel for 5 years, but didn't know the term Aliyah, nor had she ever been to Israel before. She was entertaining, but talked a lot, and was a bit off. Oh well, she was a decent bunkmate. Another girl in my room, Rosa, was from Peru and didn't speak English. Baha'i. Went downstairs again to see who else was around, and found some American boys my age, Steven and Henry, and spent the rest of the night in the courtyard with them and some others with a beer talking travels. This is why I love hostels. We shared stories of our adventures and those to come. The hostel was a great environment to meet people, and really a fun place. I would recommend it to any solo traveler. A Baha'i girl from Kosovo told us her story, and another from Germany as well. Really cool place.
I convinces Steven to wake up early and come with me in the morning. Henry wanted to sleep, but the 2 of us headed to Elijah's cave bright and early. We took a bus, a bit too far, but found the stairs without too much trouble. Debating on the way what the cave would actually look like, neither of us got it right. the cave where Elijah supposedly hid out was now considered a holy place, and was actually transformed into a little shul. We walked in without really realizing that, onto the women's side none the less. Hope we didn't offend anyone. I wish Frommer's did a better job of telling me what to expect. The cable car that should have been able to take us from there to the monestary on top of the mountain wasn't running, so we asked a man if there was another option. He said we could take the stairs. I think he told us it would take 15 minute so we would do it, but it took a bit more than that. We found another guy we recognized from our hostel, from Poland, and took him with us. Not too bad, but I worked up a sweat. We basically climbed a mountain though. That's my second time in a week! The church at the top was pretty, but not all that spectacular. Took some pictures, then decided to walk back to the hostel.
Partway back we seperated and said our goodbyes, him to go back to the hostel and check out, me to try again for the art museum. This time the door to the Chagall House was open, so I walked in. I was quickly shooed out by a woman saying they were changing the gallery and it was closed. Why they didn't do this on Tuesday afternoon when it was really closed I don't know, but needless to say I never got further than the doorway. Decided to just go to the real art museum not too far away. I was only saving this one for second in case I was "arted out" after one so I could save the entrance fee. Turns out though, somehow, there was no one at the desk when I walked in, and no one ever stopped me for a ticket. So it was free anyways. Thanks Haifa! The museum was pretty small, but had some really interesting stuff. A whole floor of various people's collections, stamps, crests, Holocaust memorabilia bought on eBay, stuffed animals, basically whatever you can imagine collecting. A series of shopping carts photography, a flower photo collage, video art. Really my kind of thing, rather than just paintings on the wall.
I made my way home via Ben Gurion street in the German Colony. That's where all the touristy restaurants are, but I found one Frommer's said wasn't too expensive, Fattoush, and had a laubne platter with veggies and pita for lunch. I love that appetizers can fill me up as a meal. Since I had finished my plan for the day already, and still had all afternoon, I consulted the map for new ideas. I let it lead me to a cemetary, which had some pretty war monuyments, and supposed burial cave, which I never found, and then I made my way to the beach. The firts beach I found was called Quiet Beach, and seemed to be fully blockaded. I figured out this was because it was a religious beach with days for men and for women. Soooo, I kept walking, around Rambam Hospital, till I found a different beach with a boardwalk. It was super windy, which kind of hurt my ears, but I saw tons and tons of windsurfers and kite surfers. Awesome. When I got splashed with salty gross fish water, and the wind was too much for me, I walked to the highway to get a bus back. I had walked FAR. I got back to the hostel and took a nap before my big night.
That night I went to the Balkan Beat Box concert. I learned of this Israeli band from Ricky, a song of theirs was her cell phone ring, which we heard quite often. From that they became a WUJS favorite and some people went to the concert in Tel Aviv. Walking around the day before, a poster had caught my eye. I noticed that the concert was the next day, Wednesday the 3rd, and decided I had to go. I asked Steven and Henry, the boys I had met last night, but they were leaving Haifa that afternoon. They did say they knew someone who was going though and gave me her number. I called Sharon, and she said that she was planning to go, but an exam of hers got changed so she needed top stay home to study. She offered to sell me her ticket. Perfect. She gave me her friend Yonatan's number, and I met him and his 2 friends there, and bought the ticket from him. Worked out quite well for all of us. The concert itself was crazy. These guys have a sort of Reggae sound, not really sure how to describe it, with these power clarinet and saxophones. Wikipedia calls them "Gypsy Punk" whatever that means. Anyways, it was awesome, lots of dancing, and I didn't get to bed until after 1.
Since I didn't have too much planned the next day, and had gotten back so later, I decided to let myself sleep in until 9 (late for travel me) but was woken up by several alarms in my room. First one 5:30, then 6 something, then 7:45, by 9 I was wide awake but still pretty wiped. I made it out before too long, packed up my bag, and checked out. I spent the morning at the Science Museum. Fortunately they helped me out and let me leave my backpack in a closet at the reception so I didn't have to walk the whole museum with it on. I spent 3 hours there too. My favorite room was about puzzles, and had all kinds of physical puzzles to do. Until the large group of children came in screaming, I spent a good deal of time solving various puzzles. Since I was alone, I took a little victory photo every time I solved one. I saw the toy room, science of magic, optical illusions, the whoel shebang. When I had had my fill I got my bag, grabbed a shnitzl baguette for lunch back on Hertzl nearby, and found a bus to Merkaz HaMifratz to head to Tsfat. I have so much to say about Tsfat, and its getting late, so I'll pick up there as soon as I can. Been an amazing Shabbat, eye opening, and I can't wait to tell you all about it. Shavua tov and talk to you soon!
I left Hod HaSharon for Haifa Tuesday morning. Started off on a good note when the driver gave me a student discount. I got off at Hof HaCarmel and took a local bus to the Port Inn. Right off the bat it ranked up there as one of the better hostels I've stayed in. The lady at the desk let me check in super fast and held my backpack for me so I could run to make the English speaking tour of the Baha'i Gardens at noon. I took the Carmelit, the only subway in Israel, walked down the gorgeous Luis Promonade to the top of the gardens, and made it just in time. The gardens themselves were beautiful, and I had seen them a few times before, but this time having someone explain more about what they actually meant really helped. Unfortunately though, the Shrine of the Bab, the central point on the hill of garden tiers, was covered for construction and not a gleaming dome as it usually is. Oh well. I watched a movie about the Baha'i faith and it was quite fascinating. They pray towards Akko as Jews do toward Jerusalem. The faith is based on the idea of community and diversity and a blend of science and religion and peace and all those good things. There were a ton of Baha'is on pilgrimage staying in my hostel as well and hearing their stories was really quite cool. More on that later.
After the gardens I made my way to a sculpture garden I had read about it my book. The plan was to get fod and sit and eat in the garden, but I didn't find any food on the way. In fact I walked uphill and only got hungirer, so I cut the garden walk short and went to get food. Walked back down the long hill and wandered a bit looking for a bite. I somehow ended up back at the hostel, so I got 10 shekel falafel (including drink) and went back to finish checking in and get settled in the room. I was in a dorm with with about 10 beds. Hadn't met any roommates yet so I headed back out with the plan of catching an art museum. The sign outside of the Chagall House, the free art gallery I wanted to make my first stop, said that it opened again at 4. I was a bit early so I wandered around the area a bit. I found a childrens art center and walked around a bit, looking at the cute projects and art on the walls. When it was almost 4 I went back to the other house, and waited. When it was 5 after 4 and the door hadn't opened, I knocked. Nothing. I looked again at the sign and read, in Hebrew, what I am pretty sure said open 8-1 and 4-7 everyday. Except Tuesday. Oops. Even Frommers lies sometimes. So after wasting a bit of time, I went back on my way.
I walked down Hertzl street, shopping strip, towards Nordauy street, a pedestrian walkway I thought would resemble Ben Yehuda in Jerusalem. As the theme of the day, it wasn't quite what I expected, pretty barren, so I finished up Hertzl street and stumbled upon the Haifa Theatre. I would. Nothing was playing that night, but I got a peek. Since it was Haifa, I had to pop by the port on my way back to the hostel for the night. I got in trouble for taking pictures. (Apparently its treated like a border crossing). Oops again. When I got back top my hostel, I came down to the communal rooms, kitchen and tv room, to explore and see what was going on. There was a family from France, Baha'i Pilgrims, with the cutest little mulatto kids. The boy and I had a brief "laser fight" with our hands, but I couldn't really talk to him since I don't exactly speak French. I went to Abu Yosef, an Arab place, for dinner, and had kubbe and a variety of salads. When I got back I met an older women in my hostel room. She was a bit strange. She had just made Aliyah to be with her daughter who had been living in Israel for 5 years, but didn't know the term Aliyah, nor had she ever been to Israel before. She was entertaining, but talked a lot, and was a bit off. Oh well, she was a decent bunkmate. Another girl in my room, Rosa, was from Peru and didn't speak English. Baha'i. Went downstairs again to see who else was around, and found some American boys my age, Steven and Henry, and spent the rest of the night in the courtyard with them and some others with a beer talking travels. This is why I love hostels. We shared stories of our adventures and those to come. The hostel was a great environment to meet people, and really a fun place. I would recommend it to any solo traveler. A Baha'i girl from Kosovo told us her story, and another from Germany as well. Really cool place.
I convinces Steven to wake up early and come with me in the morning. Henry wanted to sleep, but the 2 of us headed to Elijah's cave bright and early. We took a bus, a bit too far, but found the stairs without too much trouble. Debating on the way what the cave would actually look like, neither of us got it right. the cave where Elijah supposedly hid out was now considered a holy place, and was actually transformed into a little shul. We walked in without really realizing that, onto the women's side none the less. Hope we didn't offend anyone. I wish Frommer's did a better job of telling me what to expect. The cable car that should have been able to take us from there to the monestary on top of the mountain wasn't running, so we asked a man if there was another option. He said we could take the stairs. I think he told us it would take 15 minute so we would do it, but it took a bit more than that. We found another guy we recognized from our hostel, from Poland, and took him with us. Not too bad, but I worked up a sweat. We basically climbed a mountain though. That's my second time in a week! The church at the top was pretty, but not all that spectacular. Took some pictures, then decided to walk back to the hostel.
Partway back we seperated and said our goodbyes, him to go back to the hostel and check out, me to try again for the art museum. This time the door to the Chagall House was open, so I walked in. I was quickly shooed out by a woman saying they were changing the gallery and it was closed. Why they didn't do this on Tuesday afternoon when it was really closed I don't know, but needless to say I never got further than the doorway. Decided to just go to the real art museum not too far away. I was only saving this one for second in case I was "arted out" after one so I could save the entrance fee. Turns out though, somehow, there was no one at the desk when I walked in, and no one ever stopped me for a ticket. So it was free anyways. Thanks Haifa! The museum was pretty small, but had some really interesting stuff. A whole floor of various people's collections, stamps, crests, Holocaust memorabilia bought on eBay, stuffed animals, basically whatever you can imagine collecting. A series of shopping carts photography, a flower photo collage, video art. Really my kind of thing, rather than just paintings on the wall.
I made my way home via Ben Gurion street in the German Colony. That's where all the touristy restaurants are, but I found one Frommer's said wasn't too expensive, Fattoush, and had a laubne platter with veggies and pita for lunch. I love that appetizers can fill me up as a meal. Since I had finished my plan for the day already, and still had all afternoon, I consulted the map for new ideas. I let it lead me to a cemetary, which had some pretty war monuyments, and supposed burial cave, which I never found, and then I made my way to the beach. The firts beach I found was called Quiet Beach, and seemed to be fully blockaded. I figured out this was because it was a religious beach with days for men and for women. Soooo, I kept walking, around Rambam Hospital, till I found a different beach with a boardwalk. It was super windy, which kind of hurt my ears, but I saw tons and tons of windsurfers and kite surfers. Awesome. When I got splashed with salty gross fish water, and the wind was too much for me, I walked to the highway to get a bus back. I had walked FAR. I got back to the hostel and took a nap before my big night.
That night I went to the Balkan Beat Box concert. I learned of this Israeli band from Ricky, a song of theirs was her cell phone ring, which we heard quite often. From that they became a WUJS favorite and some people went to the concert in Tel Aviv. Walking around the day before, a poster had caught my eye. I noticed that the concert was the next day, Wednesday the 3rd, and decided I had to go. I asked Steven and Henry, the boys I had met last night, but they were leaving Haifa that afternoon. They did say they knew someone who was going though and gave me her number. I called Sharon, and she said that she was planning to go, but an exam of hers got changed so she needed top stay home to study. She offered to sell me her ticket. Perfect. She gave me her friend Yonatan's number, and I met him and his 2 friends there, and bought the ticket from him. Worked out quite well for all of us. The concert itself was crazy. These guys have a sort of Reggae sound, not really sure how to describe it, with these power clarinet and saxophones. Wikipedia calls them "Gypsy Punk" whatever that means. Anyways, it was awesome, lots of dancing, and I didn't get to bed until after 1.
Since I didn't have too much planned the next day, and had gotten back so later, I decided to let myself sleep in until 9 (late for travel me) but was woken up by several alarms in my room. First one 5:30, then 6 something, then 7:45, by 9 I was wide awake but still pretty wiped. I made it out before too long, packed up my bag, and checked out. I spent the morning at the Science Museum. Fortunately they helped me out and let me leave my backpack in a closet at the reception so I didn't have to walk the whole museum with it on. I spent 3 hours there too. My favorite room was about puzzles, and had all kinds of physical puzzles to do. Until the large group of children came in screaming, I spent a good deal of time solving various puzzles. Since I was alone, I took a little victory photo every time I solved one. I saw the toy room, science of magic, optical illusions, the whoel shebang. When I had had my fill I got my bag, grabbed a shnitzl baguette for lunch back on Hertzl nearby, and found a bus to Merkaz HaMifratz to head to Tsfat. I have so much to say about Tsfat, and its getting late, so I'll pick up there as soon as I can. Been an amazing Shabbat, eye opening, and I can't wait to tell you all about it. Shavua tov and talk to you soon!
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